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In 1965, a Japanese magazine publisher sent photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida to Ivy League schools in the United States where he took a series of candid campus photographs that were later assembled into Take Ivy, a now-iconic ethnography that will be released in English for the first time by PowerHouse Books next Tuesday. One of the most sought-after research and inspiration books, especially in the prep and Americana movements in contemporary menswear, Take Ivy has influenced designers including Ralph Lauren, Michael Bastian, and J. Crew's Frank Muytjens.
Racked caught up with Ed Heald, a 1968 Dartmouth grad whose photograph appears twice in the book—on pages 54 and 70—to get the scoop from the other side of Hayashida's camera. Heald, a freshman at the time the photo was taken, came to Dartmouth from Hudson, Ohio. His father, grandfather, and uncle all graduated from Dartmouth.
Racked: Do you remember seeing the photographer on campus freshman year?
Ed Heald: I don't, right offhand. I wasn't aware of the person taking the photograph, but I can tell you I remember the day that photo was taken.
It was freshman year—the numerals on the sweater are my graduation year. At the time, freshmen weren't allowed to play varsity sports. I played soccer in the fall, and the reward you got for playing a freshman sport was the class numeral sweater I'm wearing in the photo—if you didn't earn it athletically, you didn't get one. When you went on to letter in sophomore, junior, and senior year you got a sweater with a "D," a tie clasp, and a Dartmouth blanket.
So we had just returned to campus after Christmas break and were notified that our sweaters were available for pick-up. I scooted over, got my sweater, put it on—I was pretty proud of it—and it was just about dinnertime so I went over to the freshman dining room at Thayer Hall.
I was the only one who had picked up my sweater at the time, and it was as if everyone in the room was looking at me, like, "Where in the hell did he get that sweater." I was the first one to get the number sweater I was wearing.
Racked: When you arrived on campus that year, did you notice that Dartmouth students dressed differently from your friends back home?
Ed Heald: Interestingly enough, no. I was born in Hanover, right after the war, and my father was the manager of the Hanover Inn. I lived in New Hampshire until freshman year, when we moved out to Ohio—to a small town called Hudson.
When I started high school in southern New Hampshire, the attire at the time—I don't know if you've ever heard of Dion and the Belmonts or Fabian? They were all very characteristic of that time. Guys had very fancy hairdos, pointy-toed shoes, skinny pants and all that stuff. That was the atmosphere in southern New Hampshire.
When we moved to Ohio, Hudson had one of the best high schools in the state—and an ultra-prep environment, with bouffant hairstyles, Princeton cut button-down shirts, and penny loafers. It was the standard attire for guys out there, so going from high school in Ohio to Dartmouth, where prep style was very much the norm on campus, I had very little culture and fashion shock.
Racked: Where did you and other students shop for clothes?
Ed Heald: There were two clothing stores in town, the Dartmouth Co-op, which was five times the size it is right now—it used to occupy five different stores along that block. On the other side of the street was Campion's four stores—a women's store, a men's store, a student store, and the sporting goods area. Those two stores were the primary shopping venues.
Racked: Are there specific labels you remember being popular?
Ed Heald: This was before jeans became popular. There were wheat jeans, but chinos were the style. Penny loafers, Bass Weejuns, were the number-one shoe on campus. Button-down shirts. L.L. Bean was very popular on campus.
When you arrived on campus, you generally hooked up with one of the cleaners—you wanted to have a linen contract, to take towels, sheets, and pillow-cases, bedding, and clothing to be cleaned. There were washing machines, but the style of clothing lent itself to dry-cleaning.
We wore dirty buck shoes and desert boots, which are, basically, high-top dirty bucks. And then, in the winter, a basic winter shoe that slipped on and came up over the ankle.
UPDATE: Ed sent us a recent photo of himself, taken last year. He's the on the far right. Still a fashion icon in 2010!
· Take Ivy [Amazon]