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Duckie Brown for Fall: Big Volume in Luxurious Neutrals

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Photo credit: Getty Images

Daniel Silver and Steven Cox—design duo behind lux menswear staple Duckie Brown—presented their Fall/Winter runway show this afternoon at Lincoln Center's Studio. The collection—21 looks long—was largely neutral and fairly diaphanous; a turnaround from their last two collections which were heavier on trimmer silhouettes and featured bold splashes of color and print.

Pants were slouchy and billowing—some featuring a series of pleats that created a sort of harem-skirt look; knits were shorter and/or deeper and drawstring cinched; jackets stayed mostly trim and fitted while coats were out-sized; and looks were layered, layered, layered. Despite the sheer volume—the fabric yardage on the pants alone just boggles the mind—fine, feathery materials and a color palette of warm and cool grays, off-whites, camels and pajama-pant-blue kept looks light and floaty. Texture came courtesy of fawn shearling, nubby twill and an acid wool the show notes refer to as "Bruised Tweed"—along with Duckie-signature British and Italian tweeds and woolens. It's not for everybody—but it was luxurious and sort of refreshing in a scene exploding with heritage-this and prep-that.

Some other notes: We spotted J. Alexander, Mark Indelicato, John Bartlett, Patrick McDonald, Lauren Ezersky and Fern Mallis (who tripped over a riser leading just about every photographer in the pit to murmur and grasp in unison) along with a photographer wearing a whole lot of Galliano. Pre-show music included a strange and haunting choral version of "California Dreamin'" and a very stripped down remix of "Billie Jean." And giftbags—or gift-in-a-bag—consisted of an "Anti-Gravity Volume Powder with Matte Finish" by American Crew. Also—seriously great turn-out or lots and lots of invitations—but it was a major, major mob scene.
· Duckie Brown [Official Site]