Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. You can also see what we’re up to by signing up here.Photos courtesy of N.Hoolywood
When we got wind of N.Hoolywood's New York Fashion Week debut we expected a hip, minimalist presentation of a dozen or so models wearing the sort of heritage-made fetishistic Americana that street-driven contemporary Japanese menswear designers tend toward. Instead, we ended up sitting along the longest runway in history at the romantically-lit, portrait-lined Park Avenue Armory where designer Daisuke Obana presented 22 turn of the century mountain-climbing looks.
The show opened with a series of gusting wind sound effects as models emerged from some sort of glacial backdrop. The models: Weather-clapped, sunburned, mostly heavily-bearded, aging (made up to look aging, at least), walking slowly and stunned, wielding axes and rope and tremendous rucksacks. The clothes: Heavy wool suiting in box checks; knickers paired with stirrup, cableknit legwarmers; nubby boiler suits; collarless shirting paired with There Will Be Blood suspenders; many-pocketed, belted and bulky overcoats; henleys galore, lots of wide wale corduroy and monochromatic micro-Fair Isle. Ansel Adams and California adventurer-inspired—it was sort of imperialistic, a bit stiff and not at all what we were expecting.
· All Fashion Week Coverage [Racked]
· N.Hoolywood [Official Site]