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Marc by Marc Jacobs: Less Fuss and Back to his Preppie/Punkie Roots

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Photo credit: Getty Images

Grace Coddington, Kate Lanphear, Hamish Bowles, Anna Della Russo, Mickey Boardman, Scott Schuman, Bill Cunningham, Lynn Yaeger, Tim Blanks (oh, also Elle Fanning)—that's a lot of big named editorial wattage for a diffusion line. But, then, Marc by Marc Jacobs isn't just any diffusion line. Marc by Marc is the original diffusion line—and one of the most coveted tickets in town. Possibly more so this season—as Hurrican Irene pushed the collection show back to Thursday, when a good chunk of those bold-faced names will already be ankle boot deep in London Fashion Week.

But enough about that; let's talk clothes. Fifty looks long, featuring womenswear, menswear, those signature accessories, even swim—the show was quirked way down; with much of Marc by Marc's usual print-heavy fussiness reserved for a tiny handful of looks. To wit: A parakeet print—tropical pinks on navy—of varied sizes that popped up on a dress, women's separates, a pair of men's trunks.

Otherwise, the spring/summer '12 show, which took place last night at the Lexington Avenue Armory, was sporty and crisp. Vintage Marc by Marc, in a way—preppy, functional, youthful and a little irreverent. Colors were saturated—kelly green, tomato red, coral. There were a number of Prada-esque rugby-esque stripes, on tiny, ruffled party dresses and slinky shifts. We loved the retro swimwear, the boxy tunics, the peplum-detailing on dresses and tops, and the girls in boys' sweatshirts that featured cheeky logos in red, white and blue.

As for the boys: Skinny plaid shorts with matching anoraks; boldly-colored suit separates with contrast-piped bottoms over untucked white shirting and simple black ties; skimpy swimwear—and was that a macro irregular polka dot we spotted? More of that, please.
· Marc by Marc Jacobs [Official Site]
· All Fashion Week Coverage [Racked]