NYFW Fall 2013

Reem Acra Marries Japanese Details With Her Signature Embroidery

By Susie Kostaras Feb 12, 2013, 8:50am EST

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Reem Acra is known for a commitment to opulent gowns, and in her Fall 2013 collection, the Lebanese designer kept true to that Old Hollywood tradition of meticulous embroidery, sweeping hemlines, and layer upon layer of tulle ruffles. While holding on to those signature characteristics, Acra injected her draped sheath dresses, dramatic outerwear, and beaded column dresses with a very particular Japanese inspiration, spawned from recent travels and an admiration of artist Daido Moriyama.

A set of photographs from Moriyama reveals abstracts of the female body in fishnet stockings using a simple palette of black and white with striking pops of red. Both the restrained hues and netted design elements were borrowed for Acra's show, seen in everything from a two-tone ombre goat hair coat to the awe-inducing final gown with its delicate yet voluminous peplum highlighted by intricate red floral hand embroidery. Kimono silhouettes in wool tweeds and leather wrap belts puncuated several looks, while fur collars and opera gloves encourage warm, elegant layering. We suspect the hand woven bomber with its elaborate back pattern will be popular next fall, as well as the "optic print" silk chiffon styles.