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Marc Jacobs is never far from the fashion headlines, but 2014 is shaping up to be an especially big year for the brand as they prep for their initial public offering. As far as the company's cash is concerned, they're making it from contemporary line Marc by Marc Jacobs. Marc Jacobs president Robert Duffy told WWD that 70% of Marc Jacobs' business is done in MbMJ. Last year the company achieved $750 million in net sales, and is on track to hit a billion "soon."
While the line is raking in the dollar dollar bills, Duffy admits they "dropped the ball" in the contemporary space, losing market share to brands like Rag & Bone that have emerged since Marc by Marc's 2000 debut. The solution? A complete refresh, starting with fall 2014, which will take the runway Tuesday at 4pm (and will be conveniently streamed here on Racked).
The women's only collection that will be shown tomorrow is the brainchild of two recent hires: Katie Hillier, who oversaw the brand's handbags and accessories for over ten years and now will work as MbMJ's creative director, and Luella Bartley, a former British Vogue editor who designed her line Luella through Spring 2010, now working as the brand's design director.
As far as inspiration goes, Hillier says, "We decided who we wanted the girl to be again based on her a long time ago versus now. It's not her then, it's her now." Bartley, who was brought on to "reestablish the line as a real fashion collection," says, "I started with Power Rangers... I wanted to get across this youthful but strong attitude. [She's] a girl with character and independence from other girls." Other hints at what will be shown tomorrow include references to ninjas, samauris, and BMX chicks, obi belts, colorful sneakers, and a host of new accessories.
Beyond the runway refresh, the brand is invested in a redesigned showroom, and has plans for new packaging, new advertising, new store concepts, and a new name for the collection.
· The New Marc by Marc (by Katie and Luella) [WWD]
· Wow: Marc Jacobs to Completely Change Marc Jacobs [Racked]