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Truth be told, Milan Fashion Week can get a little stuffy. Most of the brands that show are storied luxury houses best known by the general populous for their leather goods—shoes, wallets, bags—and probably only worn head-to-toe by Middle Eastern princesses and other incredibly wealthy beings. Maybe the Italians tired of this reputation, 'cause they got into some weird stuff this weekend.
You'll have to click through for the lowdown, but here's an idea of what to expect: Rita Ora wears a Cheez-It dress, there are two separate runway shows involving fire (like, lots of fire), Marni does cra-aa-azy fur and fashion people love it so hard, and Naomi Campbell takes the runway for an unexpected brand.
ADR, Rita Ora, Jeremy Scott.
Following the logo-tastic Moschino show, designer Jeremy Scott hosted a dinner where famous people wore the new clothes together. Anna Dello Russo went for the nouveau classic double arches motif, while Rita Ora opted for a cheese cracker-inspired number. Katy Perry was, in comparison, a snooze in plain black with an oversized gold necklace spelling out Moschino.
The 22nd was a big day for Roberto Cavalli—in fact, staffers were calling it Roberto Cavalli Day internally (and you thought it was just Saturday!). First was the runway show, followed by the opening of the world's biggest RC shop (five stories!), and then the requisite fancy fashion dinner.
Ellie Goulding flew in (read: was flown in) just for the show, her first time at Milan Fashion Week. The singer is known for her single "Burn," the theme of which was repeated in the runway presentation, which was punctuated by a literal ring of fire. Fashion folks were not pleased.
Suzy Menkes wrote, "The visual effect was striking, if schlocky; but so was the rotisserie effect for those sitting in the front rows, the heat and the smell. It was hard not to feel sorry for the models swathed in fur, of which there was no shortage." Next, she went on to quote Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet's Instagram comment of the show, which read, "Dear London Designers, in addition to convenient spacious venues with easy in and out access please consider NOT lighting a ring of fire in an over-capacity tent."
In feel good news, Indian designer Rahul Mishra cried on stage when he was announced the winner of this year's International Woolmark Prize, which was judged by Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani, Gucci's Frida Giannini, and the world's longest set of hipster legs, Alexa Chung. Mishra beat out four other finalists—including the US's Joseph Altuzarra—for the prize, which was famously won by Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in its inaugural year, 1954.
- "Consuelo Castiglioni’s fertile imagination is admirable. But the show needed an injection of that vital fashion quality: simplicity."—Suzy Menkes,
- This was a powerful show — a sheer pleasure to look at (unless you’re a strict minimalist who can’t handle an extra button) and one that made you think... despite instant access and mainstream obsession with all things fashion, is there still a thriving n
- The Marni show was a blast of energy, texture and colour this morning; designer Consuelo Castiglioni proving once again that her label is one that shirks Milanese reputation and rules for true originality.—Dolly Jones,
- You can rely on Marni to ignite the Sunday morning slot in Milan. Not with a circle of fire like Roberto Cavalli—nothing so literal would ever cross the mind of Marni’s Consuelo Castiglione—but in the sense of strong, imaginative clothes that make magazin
- Marni delivers the perfect balance between a stylist's paradise and a shopper's dream.—Lisa Armstrong, Telegraph
- There were also silhouettes to compound the impression of a Marni woman who was almost aggressively confident—less quirk, more guts. More everything, in fact, than usual.—Tim Blanks, Style
- It’s a million miles away from the übercool underground vibe of New York’s Hood By Air, it’s true, but some of that same street spirit was evident here too. Castiglioni is clearly tapping into something that’s out there, and which is only going to get str
Marni jolted everyone awake Sunday morning with a more-is-more, bigger-is-better collection that could probably swallow The Row's enormous sweaters whole. Beyond Suzy Menkes commenting that the offerings could use a little pairing down, fashion critics kind of adored the wack-a-doodle fur and oversized everything collection. Click through the gallery above for comments from Vogue, Style.com, WWD, and more.
That evening, Philipp Plein staged quite the spectacle, beginning with a performance of "Facemelt" by Rita Ora. Next, Naomi Campbell opened the show, which was staged to look like a gas station. Naomi also closed the show, but not until an El Camino Classic exploded into flames (what is this fire theme, Milan?) and models marched through the resultant smoke. Again, the front row was not amused.
Last but not least, a weird trend in staging: Night gardens. Three different brands showed variations on the theme. Dolce & Gabanna presented their woodland-charm-meets-dark-ages collection against a set of spindly trees rooted in moss and backlit with violet. Versace had girls parade from behind iron garden gates, with tendrils of greenery overhead. Sergio Rossi presented their offerings in yet another enchanted forest display, replete with dimly-lit greenery, creepy logs, and artful butterflies.
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