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At its core, Fashion Week is about discovery — not about street style, not about Instagram Stories, not about the parties. It’s about seeing clothes and accessories from both up-and-coming designers and established fashion houses in an environment that, from the music to the lighting to the venue, reflect the vision of the brand behind them.
Here are the designers a handful of Racked editors found and fell in love with this season.
Britt Aboutaleb, Editor-in-Chief
Rejina Pyo! Yasmin Sewell wore a dress by her that might sound weird — a sort of off the shoulder scarf layered beneath a retro, ladylike silhouette — but was actually just perfect in real life. The London-based designer showed in New York for the first time, with a low-key presentation at Maryam Nassir Zadeh's LES store, but it was the editors walking around in her clothes that actually made me want to buy everything.
Tiffany Yannetta, Shopping Director
I was really into Kuho, a Korean brand that’s launching in the US for spring 2017. The line is clean but definitely not overly minimal; simple, but also kind of weird. The Venn diagram of wherever those four points intersect is the exact look I’m pretty much always going for.
And I loved the Alejandra Alonso Rojas presentation. The line is on the expensive side and out of my personal price range, but it’s really great mood board fodder. There’s a beautiful pale blue suede dress that I would live, as well as a leather lavender blazer. I’m excited to see what she continues to do with her namesake line, which is new for spring (her previous brand was called A MOI).
Eliza Brooke, Senior Reporter
I hadn't heard of the menswear brand Ddugoff before visiting the CFDA Incubator's open studio presentation at the tail end of fashion week, but I liked designer Daniel DuGoff's take on clothing for startup types — which is to say, clothes for guys who don't have to dress up much for work, but don't want to wear the same J.Crew shirt as everyone else.
There were some really great knit sweatpants, multi-colored quilted jackets, and one wonderful oversized jacket in dark green corduroy. I would personally purchase a lot of these pieces, and I'm not the only woman who feels that way: DuGoff told me that a number of his clients are ladies.
Robyn Mowatt, Market Intern
I loved unabashedly quirky ‘70s inspired textures and prints. Kim Shui’s spring 2017 collection included a variety of trendy cuts with a great color palette. Each look was exciting, moving, and a bit eccentric, but in total the collection was cohesive.
Also, the mixture of warm greens and soft pinks against black and white plaid was pretty magical to me — I can definitely see myself in the bustier with fur.
Anthony Leslie, Video Shooter/Editor
Christopher Shannon is one of my favorite emerging designers. Although he’s breaking norms and building a firm base in the industry, his talent hasn’t captured the world yet. In my eye, he’s designing the future, which is why most people haven’t been hooked. I like his plays on silhouettes, patterns, and the fabrics he chooses to manipulate. His men’s denim for spring is like nothing I’ve seen before.
I absolutely love Craig Green. The colors attract you to the clothes, and then the details are right behind them. If there was one designer I could wear all fall and all spring, it’d be him.
Sam Mc London — just like Craig Green — has mastered lightweight neoprene. (The brand’s prints remind me of the Givenchy Rottweiler motif.) Besides that, their visuals and campaigns are awesome. His brand really speaks to the underground creatives.
Song Seoyoon showed at her first major show for VFiles. She told me that her teacher at Parsons "hated her collection and recently asked to sit front row at VFiles.” Moving fashion forward is not an easy task, and I think she can do it. I love the revamped suit look, which I think is coming back in a major way.
Okay, in the midst of writing this, I realized my new style, and Feng Cheng Weng just confirmed it. I love lightweight comfortable clothing with edge and detail, and poppy colors. Feng Cheng Weng usually has draw strings that gives the clothing more ways to style. Details!