Racked: All Posts by Refinery29The National Shopping, Stores, and Retail Scene Bloghttps://cdn.vox-cdn.com/community_logos/52809/32x32.0..png2015-02-19T12:15:13-05:00https://www.racked.com/authors/refinery29/rss2015-02-19T12:15:13-05:002015-02-19T12:15:13-05:00What It's Like to Be a Model with Natural Hair at Fashion Week
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p>
<p>It was New York Fashion Week, and <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/2015/02/82431/brandee-brown-natural-hair-model?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=main">Brandee Brown</a> was just beginning her runway career. (You may now know her as an NYC It Girl, and a former campaign model for DKNY.) She arrived at her call time for her second show of the season, and it was a typical scene. Two hairstylists immediately got to work on her. The style was "wet look," and the pros began deliberating.</p>
<p>"They started picking at my hair like little monkeys, lifting it up and examining it like it was out of this world," Brandee says with a laugh. It's worth noting that Brandee, who normally wears her hair curly, had just received a blowout for a runway appearance the previous day.</p>
<p>After some discussion, one of the stylists grabbed a spray bottle and pointed it at Brandee's head. "It’s going to <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/brushing-curly-hair?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">curl up</a> if you do that," she warned. But, he didn't listen, and began to drench her hair. "After that, I just zoned out."</p>
<p><q class="pullquote float-right"><span>"To show up as a hairstylist and not know how to work with Black hair—how is that professional?"</span></q></p>
<p>Almost 45 minutes later, Brandee looked up from her phone and glanced in the mirror, at the models sitting next to her, and then back at her reflection. "I turned to the side, and my hair was literally sticking straight out in the back of my head. It looked like I was in a wind tunnel," she says.</p>
<p>She walked toward the makeup department, visibly upset. "I didn’t want to complain, you know? But, I just hoped my facial expression might give people a hint." Lo and behold, someone noticed: The key makeup artist stopped mid-interview with a group of editors, grabbed her, and asked if she had had her hair done.</p>
<p>When she nodded yes, he rolled his eyes. "It looks like you stuck your finger in an electrical socket." He promptly marched her over to the lead hairstylist. What happened next was, unfortunately, another very typical backstage scene: "There were 20 hands on my head at once," she says. "They were pulling my head this way and that with flat irons and blowdryers…I didn't even know I had that much hair on my head. And, here we are, right before the show's about to start, and all the other girls are laughing and talking to each other and taking pictures."</p>
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<p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a target="_top" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" href="https://instagram.com/p/sLHBQNHf8h/">A photo posted by @brandeebrown</a> on <time datetime="2014-08-26T19:41:21+00:00" style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;">Aug 26, 2014 at 12:41pm PDT</time></p>
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<p>Thankfully, Brandee says, she's a native New Yorker with a tough skin. "On shoots and at shows, people will make comments about my hair, and I'll just shrug it off," she says. "But, I'm beginning to realize that this isn't conducive to fixing the problem."</p>
<p>Fixing it means examining it on more than one level—including from the perspective of professionalism. "If you're hired for a job, you expect everyone to be on-point," Brandee says. "They show up, know what they're doing, and stay focused. That's why they're working; that's their specialty. So, to show up as a hairstylist and not know how to work with Black hair—how is that professional?"</p>
<p><q class="pullquote float-left"><span>"It's like, they don't even know the potential of this hair."</span></q></p>
<p>Session stylists, as they're called, rarely get to work with textured hair. Brandee points out that, in a season of 60 fashion shows, she's often the one head of naturally curly hair a stylist deals with, and that's about all the practice they get. I am friends with one such stylist, who receives phone calls asking if she "can do Black hair" prior to being confirmed for a job. Outside of session styling, in the salon world, there's also a lack of education. In fact, in the state of New York, this phenomenon has prompted a petition to start a separate license for styling and braiding natural hair.</p>
<p>All of this puts the burden on the model to do her own hair, while the other girls get professional 'dos. Brandee sometimes comes to jobs equipped with an <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/diy-natural-hair-products?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">arsenal of her own products</a>. "I'll show up on set, and the stylist will get nervous and say, 'Perfect, your curls are great. Leave them.' Meanwhile, I had just taken my hat off and hadn't washed my hair in days. It's like, they don't even know the potential of this hair—of how it can look good and be styled."</p>
<p>Before shows, she's started booking appointments at her favorite salon so she doesn't have to deal with on-set awkwardness. Or, worse: looking subpar in the photos, and thus risking not being booked again. Once, she even showed up with her own <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/naturally-curly/28?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related%0D%0A">hairstylist</a>, just to prove what her hair could do. "I need to feel confidence and personality in order to get the photo."</p>
<p>There's a bigger issue here. Fashion rarely shows natural hair—even when the stylists wax poetic about "enhancing the girls' natural texture." Season after season, the look has been mid-length to long, with no volume at the crown and a slight bend. You’ve seen it at Alexander Wang, Isabel Marant, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, and others. It has been exhaustively called "cool-girl hair," and even "natural." Stylists say it was inspired by Kate Moss, or "the models, as they came in for the casting." This is what's chic, they (and, let's be honest, we) say, holding it up as the answer to overly styled, Pinterest-intricate manes and Kardashian-esque banana curls. Just two days ago, we were backstage at one of the most important shows of the season listening to a well-respected hairstylist talk about the "dream hair" of Daria Werbowy and Freja Beha Erichsen, proffering them as goddesses of mane attraction.</p>
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<p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://instagram.com/p/u1WQigHf5i/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_top">A photo posted by @brandeebrown</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2014-10-31T22:25:24+00:00">Oct 31, 2014 at 3:25pm PDT</time></p>
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<p>This begs the question: Whose dream are we talking about? And, are we aware that, as followers and arbiters of fashion, we dictate what's "stylish," and, thus, "aspirational?" Do we realize that as we conceptualize, style, or report on these looks, we're leaving countless women out of this "dream?"</p>
<p>"There's a pressure among Black models to be relaxed," Brandee says. The reason to show up with relaxed hair or a weave is partly practical: You can either have the same hair as everybody else...or you could be different. And, when the odds are pretty good that you'll be one of a handful of non-white girls backstage, it can make sense to minimize the attention you draw to yourself.</p>
<p>That's exactly what's so unfortunate about the situation. As long as the shows continue to dictate the trends, and we continue to hold up one beauty standard above all, we're only accelerating the vicious cycle. "It would just be cool to see an editorial in a major fashion magazine with kinky, curly hair," Brandee says. "If you're a jeweler, do you only work with one cut of diamond? Everything needs to be represented, not just a certain kind of Black beauty."</p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/19/8066643/natural-hair-brandee-brown-fashion-weekRefinery292015-02-17T13:06:57-05:002015-02-17T13:06:57-05:00Confessions of a Bikini Waxer
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<img alt="Illustrations by Elliot Salazar" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/acC4JaSkjK5l-Iex1FzVC5I9hPQ=/170x0:702x399/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/45706468/image.0.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Illustrations by Elliot Salazar</figcaption>
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p>
<p>I have been an aesthetician for almost 20 years. But, as far as learning to wax...that's a different story. Basically, I just went through cosmetology school, and was thrown into aesthetics (facials, waxing, etc.) at my first job. I did a crash course in skin care and brow waxing and all of that good stuff, but at the time, Brazilians were just starting—they weren't as pervasive as they are today. One day, my boss was just like, "There's a Brazilian in your book tomorrow!" But I had never done one before. So, she sent me a <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/men-getting-bikini-waxes-video?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">video tutorial</a> to take home and I remember watching it over breakfast. My husband was there and there were some painters doing work in the house, and they were like, "What is this?!" I knew about as much as they did.<br><br>Long story short, it was baptism by fire. I just had to do it. It took me a long time, and I learned there's always a tricky situation to avoid—especially on people's butts. If you don't do it properly, one cheek sticks to the other and you can leave a hickey mark. There can be some really scary moments. Thankfully, everything turned out just fine. Except, the woman I was waxing kept talking about sex with her husband and how he's going to love this, and it was a little uncomfortable given that it was my first time. <br><br>There are so many of those sorts of stories, and every aesthetician has one, but I have to say, <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/waxing-salon-nyc?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">bikini waxing</a> allows you to really develop an intimate relationship with your client. There are plenty of people who can do facials or eyebrows, but, generally, once a regular decides to finally bite the bullet and come in for a Brazilian, I know that she's loyal. In fact, I've been seeing my regular Brazilian clients for over a decade. They're my most loyal clientele. And that's because the whole situation builds a mutual amount of trust—she's nervous or outside of her comfort zone, maybe, and I'm there to help in a way that hopefully feels delicate and safe. It's weird to say, but that can be somewhat rewarding. <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/bikini-wax-stories?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=main">Here are a few more stories</a> of my time at the table.</p>
<h3>Playing For Keeps</h3>
<p>Of course, it only got more interesting. My second client was absurdly neurotic when I would wax her. I used a hard wax, and every time I'd do a section, she'd ask for the pieces of wax with her hair in them because she wanted to see how much was removed. She'd collect it and take it home with her, asking for a paper towel to put it all in. You're in a position, as the aesthetician, where you have to be professional and you can't act like it's weird or uncomfortable—you just keep your cool no matter what.</p>
<h3>Hot Wax...Is Hot?</h3>
<p>Nobody tops my ultimate Brazilian client. This woman was sort of a VIP at the salon—she got very expensive haircuts and color with the owner, and then eventually started coming in for bikini waxing, and then she wanted Brazilian waxing, which is usually about how it goes. If I ever waxed her butt, she would say things like, "Oh, this is really hot." And, I would just pretend I didn't hear it. I tried to make conversation about, like, the most bland things or, you know, anything that doesn't have to do with what's actually happening. Usually you talk about the weather! But, she always got turned on. <br><br>One time, she was actually moaning and she kept repeating that, saying, "This is really hot!" And, I just thought to myself, <em>how can you change the topic?</em> <em>She doesn't eat gluten—let's talk about that! </em>Nothing worked. She just kept moaning every time I would rip a section. Finally, I finished the service and left the spa room, but she ended up staying in there with the door closed for almost a half-hour. God knows what was going on. Later, she called the salon complaining that she got some sort of folliculitis or something like that; it was pretty much the ultimate nightmare.</p>
<h3>Stringing Along</h3>
<p>I have never quite understood why people don't reschedule their Brazilian waxes when they're on their period. I have had many women come in who are like, "I have my period, but it's the end and I have a tampon in!" <br><br>You know, there are sanitary reasons, sure, but there are other things you need to worry about, too. One time, a woman's tampon string got caught by the wax. The wax pushed onto the string, so when I ripped off the strip, the tampon came right out with it. Thankfully, it was the end of her period, and we both just laughed hysterically. That had to be one of the funniest moments ever in my spa room.</p>
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<h3>Teamwork Makes The Dream Work</h3>
<p>You're just very up close and personal with different parts of women's bodies. Once you've learned how to <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/how-to-wax?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">wax properly</a>, it's all about applying pressure after, the angles of ripping the wax, the way you hold the skin taut, and then the body positions the client prefers, especially for the backside. Some women are flexible and can raise their legs over their head. I usually give clients the option of going on all fours—the idea of it is worse than the actual waxing part for some people. So, there's that position, or they can lay on their side and hold their buttocks up, but you have to let them know to not let go because otherwise the cheeks get stuck together! They'll get a little chuckle out of that. <br><br>A Brazilian can really be about teamwork. Sometimes women have to hold their labia extra tight so they don't get pulled too hard, and then some people really don't have any, so there's not much of a circumference to get in and wax, which forces us to be inventive with positioning. I usually drape my clients, too, so I'm only waxing a certain exposed area at a time, which lends a feeling of security. If they hold the skin, it also helps them have more control and feel like they're involved. I've had a lot of people who start the service feeling very uncomfortable, but feel better by the time they leave.</p>
<h3>Warm (Not Fuzzy!) Feelings</h3>
<p>It's funny, because I've never thought about it in these terms, but bikini waxing in general has taught me that everyone's a little different down there. But we also have all these hang-ups with being naked or issues with our different body parts, and I have really learned that people shouldn't be so awkward about it. It's like, every female has a vagina—get over it! If you want it waxed, it's totally fine. It's a beautiful area, just as much as anything else. When I first started, I was horrified that I had to wax there. But, you know what? It's made me feel more body-positive, which makes it a better experience in general for my clients.<br><br>I know the nightmare stories are more fun to tell, but it's important to me to be able to see women regularly. Some of my clients were newly married or not at all married when they first came to see me, and now their kids are growing up before my eyes. I've had clients where I've seen them before their first baby, and I gave them a Brazilian before they gave birth—which a lot of women request. That's always really difficult because it's painful, and they're more sensitive, and it's more awkward to get in there, but it's kind of like preparing them for a big life moment and giving them a little bit more confidence or control before this massive event happens.</p>
<p>Then, of course, they have the baby and things change down there a little. It's kind of cool, because you develop a relationship with people that stands a long time...it just makes them feel comfortable that they have this person who has seen them through all things and treats them all the same. It's good, in my work, to feel like you can be reassuring and positive to women who have been through all these things. You're sort of in it together.</p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/17/8051235/confessions-of-a-bikini-waxerRefinery292015-02-13T12:13:36-05:002015-02-13T12:13:36-05:00Beauty Tips From Porn Stars
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<img alt="Photos: Getty" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/8TjWJTHwUBADl75z2sqecQBuAw8=/739x603:4551x3462/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/45685422/Blush.0.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Photos: Getty</figcaption>
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p>
<p>Sometimes, it's refreshing to mix things up a bit. Like forgoing Taylor Swift on replay for a little Sleigh Bells or, better yet, giving your standard, vanilla porn a breather in favor of some edgy <i>alt</i> adult fare. Because, well-placed arty tattoos, all the piercings, and a badass attitude just make life a little more interesting. Plus, there's more to some of these alt ladies than performing in films. They're out there writing, producing, and directing their work, and running their own companies—and looking <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/best-instagram-makeup-transformations?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related#slide">flawless</a> while they're at it.</p>
<p>We talked to four women dominating the industry right now: actress, writer, director, and producer Joanna Angel (basically the Angelina Jolie of alt-porn); actress, model, new-media mogul, and author Kayla-Jane Danger; actress, model, and director Bonnie Rotten; and model-turned-actress-and-singer Skin Diamond. These fearless stars graciously took time away from the <a href="http://avnawards.avn.com/">AVN Awards</a> (a.k.a. the Oscars of adult film) to dispense crucial advice on making makeup stay put, keeping skin flawless from head to toe, and masterfully disguising blemishes, weird tan lines, and love bites all over. Spoiler alert: They hold differing opinions when it comes to personal grooming. Gotta keep it interesting, right?</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Primer and setting spray are your staying-power secrets.</h2>
<p>"Definitely <a href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=nOD%2FrLJHOac&mid=2417&u1=racked&murl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fphoto-finish-foundation-primer-P9889" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">primer</a>. Primer, primer, primer," says Danger, who's been in the biz for a decade now. "Personally, I don't even think I care what brand it is, just as long as there's something there for the makeup to stick to." She also uses a pro makeup trick learned from long days on set. "Day to night: <a href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=nOD%2FrLJHOac&mid=2417&u1=racked&murl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fmist-fix-P386660" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">setting spray</a>, all over the place." Same for Diamond, who says her makeup artists use <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maccosmetics.com%2Fproduct%2F177%2F32212%2FProducts%2FSkincare%2FSolutions%2FPrep-Prime-Fix%2Findex.tmpl&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">MAC Prep + Prime Fix</a> to set her face for work and create a nice, dewy glow in the process. For sweat-proof staying power, Angel relies on the entire <a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/links/8532386/type/dlg/sid/racked/http://www.stilacosmetics.com/search.do?query=all+day" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Stila Stay All Day line</a>.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>A perfectly goth smoky eye requires some commitment.</h2>
<p>Along with sporting tattoos, multiple piercings (yep, both nipples), and a rad side-shaved coif, Diamond counts a stunningly gorgeous smoky eye as part of her signature look. Her approach is straightforward: Apply black eyeliner first—she likes a <a href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=nOD%2FrLJHOac&mid=2417&u1=racked&murl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fcolorful-waterproof-eyeliner-24-hr-wear-P384877" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Sephora liquid one</a>—and layer on loads of <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maccosmetics.com%2Fproduct%2Fshaded%2F154%2F363%2FEye-Shadow%2Findex.tmpl&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">black MAC eyeshadow</a>. "You have to have a lot of patience and just blend, blend, blend," she says. "Otherwise, you won't make it smoke out evenly."</p>
<p> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/FTfvmAoLT-CMnOhIsojVdi1Zflw=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/3407070/Eyelashes.0.jpg">
</figure>
</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Keep a go-to mascara in your makeup kit.</h2>
<p>For work or play, a volumizing, lengthening and/or waterproof (and sometimes sweat-proof) <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/2015/02/81801/tom-ford-beauty-spring-2015?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related#slide">mascara</a> is essential. "I love Benefit mascaras right now," says Diamond. "I just bought <a href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=nOD%2FrLJHOac&mid=2417&u1=racked&murl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fthey-re-real-mascara-P289307" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">They're Real</a>, which is really good for natural-looking lashes, but with volume. I usually use <a href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=nOD%2FrLJHOac&mid=2417&u1=racked&murl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fbadgal-lash-mascara-P49014" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">BADgal</a> for that goth smoky eye." On the luxe end of the spectrum, Rotten loves <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dolcegabbana.com%2Fbeauty%2Fmakeup%2Feyes-products%2Fmascara-passioneyes%2F&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Dolce & Gabbana's Passion eyes</a> and, for a more wallet-friendly option, Danger likes <a href="http://www.maybelline.com/Products/Eye-Makeup/Mascara/volum-express-the-colossal-washable-mascara.aspx">Maybelline Volum' Express The Colossal Washable Mascara</a>, which she stashed in her clutch for the AVN Awards.</p>
<p>False eyelashes help define those eyes even more—but it's important to always have a backup plan. When Danger wears her falsies out to an event, she <i>always</i> carries extra lash glue in her bag. "There's nothing worse than having to take eyelashes off halfway through the night, and having a stripe through your eyeliner or have one hanging off your face," she says, laughing. The mini <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.drugstore.com%2Frevlon-precision-lash-adhesive%2Fqxp301578&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Revlon Precision Lash Adhesive</a> is her favorite for slipping into the teeniest of clutches.</p>
<p>Speaking of teeny, the ladies like to leave their big ol' makeup cases at home and keep abbreviated versions of their primping stashes in their going-out bags. <i>Very</i>abbreviated versions. "Our makeup artists give us these nice little palm-size to-go kits," Danger says. "Like, if you're just going out for the night, put a little powder on a puff or a little lip gloss on a Q-tip. Then, put it in a little plastic bag and put it in your clutch." Huh.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Be gentle when removing your layers of pore-clogging makeup, especially if you have sensitive skin.</h2>
<p>There's an art to the process. "I use the <a href="http://www.simpleskincare.com/our-products/product/cleansing-facial-wipes.html">Simple brand makeup-remover wipes</a>, because my skin reacts to everything," says Danger. Rotten is a fan of the <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neutrogena.com%2Fproduct%2Fmakeup%2Bremover%2Bcleansing%2Btowelettes%2B-%2Bnight%2Bcalming.do&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Neutrogena Night Calming wipes</a>, and Diamond swears by good old coconut oil, especially for stubborn waterproof eye makeup. Angel gets a bit more inventive with her cleansing routine. "If I am wearing a lot of makeup, I wash my face with <a href="http://neumabeauty.com/1.0/moisture-shampoo/">Neuma Shampoo</a>," she says. "A lot of makeup-remover wipes make me break out."</p>
<p>After filming, Rotten is a stickler for immediately cleansing her face with <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kiehls.com%2FUltra-Facial-Cleanser%2F714%2Cdefault%2Cpd.html&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cleanser</a>, and then clearing out pores and preventing blemishes with dependable <a href="http://www.clearasil.us/product-lines/ultra/wipes-and-pads/ultra-rapid-action-pads/">Clearasil pads</a>. "You know the kind you use in high school when you have pimples?" she says, laughing. "I love those."</p>
<p>But, let's not forget skin elsewhere, since it's getting major camera time. After all, being naked is an integral part of the job. For that, they find everything they need at the drugstore. First off, you gotta exfoliate. Diamond uses an <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thebodyshop-usa.com%2Fshop-by-line%2Fshop-accessories%2Fbath-gloves.aspx&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">exfoliating glove</a> and <a href="https://goto.target.com/c/482924/81938/2092?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.target.com%2Fp%2Fdove-sensitive-skin-body-wash-24-oz%2F-%2FA-11695275&sharedid=racked.com" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Dove body wash</a> in the shower, while Angel first cleanses with <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.walgreens.com%2Fq%2Fdial-soap&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Dial soap</a> and then refines her skin with the <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ulta.com%2Fulta%2Fbrowse%2FproductDetail.jsp%3FproductId%3Dprod2045052&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Neutrogena Body Scrub</a>, using an exfoliating detailer. Also, you can never over-moisturize, at least according to Diamond. "I use <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.walgreens.com%2Fstore%2Fc%2Fnivea-extended-moisture-body-creme%2FID%3Dprod6111285-product&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Nivea</a> for super, super-dry skin, even though my skin isn't that dry," she says. "I just feel like I want the most moisture I can possibly have."</p>
<p>"I use <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.burtsbees.com%2FCoconut-Foot-Cream%2F06999-00%2Cdefault%2Cpd.html&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Burt's Bees Coconut Foot Creme</a> on my feet, because it's really dry where I live," Rotten says. "It's ridiculous." Considering that immaculate feet (along with flawless butt and legs) are part of Danger's (NSFW alert!) <a href="http://mydollparts.com/">business model</a>, meticulous foot care is essential to her regular routine. "Feet are the foundation of your body, so they deserve pampering and love," she says.</p>
<p> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/NvmHFspv2rtQ7Vo6mC8Oj9Hx_UQ=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/3407102/CoverUp.0.jpg">
</figure>
</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Find a surefire way to cover up blemishes, tattoos, and more when necessary.</h2>
<p>Sadly, on certain film sets Danger has to hide her glorious tats. The magical way to flawlessly cover them is Dermablend. "If they can cover my tattoos, they can cover ingrown hairs," she reasons. "Or, they can cover a bite mark on your butt." (We were <i>wondering</i> about the best way to do that...) She suggests using the products in layers: Apply <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dermablend.com%2Fcover_creme.html%3Fcgid%3Dshop-products%26dwvar_cover__creme_color%3DCoverCreme_Yellow_Beige&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Cover Creme</a>, and then secure with the <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dermablend.com%2Fsetting-powder%2Floose_setting_powder.html&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Loose Setting Powder</a>. The best part: "You can rub up against things," and it won't come off. Angel has another fast fix for a common predicament: "Once I had a really bad farmer tan, and I used that <a href="http://www.sallyhansen.com/skin-body/airbrush-legs">Sally Hansen airbrush</a> stuff, and it looked okay," she says.</p>
<p>"Having tattoos, you need to treat your skin like you're the palest, [most] ginger person you know," explains Danger, who is allergic to some pigments in her ink. So, definitely slather on strong SPF when you're facing the elements. And, make sure to moisturize, since the inked-up areas have a higher tendency to dry out. Also, treat yo'self. "I use natural <a href="http://www.albabotanica.com/body/bath-shower/sparkling-mint-1.html">Alba products</a> in the bath," Danger says. "They have a mint body wash that gives you this nice, effervescent feeling. It tingles a little, and it smells really nice. I love it. It tingles in all the right ways."</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>If you shave, do it right.</h2>
<p>When it comes to personal <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/old-school-beauty-tips?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related#slide">grooming</a> in this industry, waxing isn't always an option since the actresses don't have the luxury of that growing-out time between salon sessions. So, shaving is a popular alternative. But, using any ol' shaving cream or soap isn't the best idea. Ingrown hairs and razor bumps aren't fun—especially on that part of your body. Rotten has a solution: "There's this product out in adult stores called Coochy Cream," she says. (You can also find it online.) "It's a shaving cream with aloe in it, and it really helps the razor bumps." After shaving, she spritzes on the brand's <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinkapple.com%2FProduct%2FCoochy-Cream%2F4248%2FCoochy-Cream-After-Shave-Protection-Mist.html&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Protection Mist</a> to clear out pores and cool down the region.</p>
<p>Diamond is also Team Razor, but she has her own strict skin-care regimen. "I put soothing things on my more sensitive areas after I shave, just to stop ingrown hairs," she explains. "I just use <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1514733&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.soap.com%2Fp%2Fgillette-venus-breeze-razor-60107&referrer=racked.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.racked.com%2F2015%2F2%2F13%2F8027049%2Fbeauty-tips-from-porn-stars" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Venus'</a> old-school, regular shaving products with cream, and then I use vitamin-E oil on my sensitive area."</p>
<p>Option two for grooming: a combination of permanent laser hair removal treatments and waxing. (Although, Angel will <i>only</i> do GentleLase along with threading—a nod to her Middle Eastern heritage.) Of course, as hair and eyebrow styles come and go, so do trends when it comes to pubes, as Gwyneth Paltrow and <i>Scandal</i> FLOTUS Mellie Grant can attest.</p>
<p>"As someone who is naked all the time, I have never and will never get everything lasered off," says Danger. "I like to change the shape, and I like to change the style. But, not ever having to worry about my bikini line or around my labia." So, she lasers her bikini line only, for flexibility in terms of styling the "top." Angel maintains just the landing strip, and asks her technician to laser around it.</p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/13/8027049/beauty-tips-from-porn-starsRefinery292015-02-11T13:46:02-05:002015-02-11T13:46:02-05:00End Blackheads With These Genius Skin Tricks
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<img alt="Illustrations by Anna Sudit" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/7lgC-BN6fk8eNAHE0oR0hHw6iAE=/45x0:718x505/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/45670984/BlackheadsTreatement1.0.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Illustrations by Anna Sudit</figcaption>
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p>
<p>You've seen the YouTube tutorials (google "Blackhead Removal SHOCKING Video"—or don’t), the DIY facial-scrub recipes, and yes, even the little black dots all over your nose in your 10x magnifying mirror. Blackheads are exceedingly common. But, why are they so irksome?</p> <p><span>"I think it's partly because they feel rough to the surface," says Doris J. Day, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist and author of 100 Questions & Answers About Acne. "There's the idea that blackheads are stuck in your skin—and if you remove them, there's a sense of gratification and relief that they're gone. <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/2013/11/56346/how-to-prevent-blackheads?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">Blackheads</a> just seem so manageable in that way: You just get them out, and then you're done."</span></p>
<p>That perception couldn't be further from the truth. Getting rid of blackheads—for good—is a process that requires the right products (hello, salicylic acid), a regular skin-care regimen, and sometimes even the help of pros. Ahead, we spoke to Dr. Day about her most effective tricks.</p>
<h2>Know Thy Enemy</h2>
<p>The first step in treating blackheads is truly understanding them. Basically, a blackhead is a pore that's clogged with a mixture of dead skin cells, oil, and Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) — a bacteria that thrives on the protein and oil in your pores and causes breakouts. Unlike a whitehead (a closed comedo), a blackhead is open at the skin's surface (an open comedo). Exposure to air causes this plug of gunk to oxidize and turn black, making it really tempting to mess with.</p>
<p> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/USGMWAWodjjvdcHM7J0yUzNZQEw=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/3399372/SalicylicAcidBlackheads.0.jpg">
</figure>
</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Slather On Salicylic Acid</h2>
<p>When it comes to blackhead removal, salicylic acid is your best friend. Commonly found in over-the-counter acne treatments, the ingredient gently helps skin-cell turnover, helping unclog your pores. The best way to use it is by layering it on once or twice a day, in concentrations between .5 and 2%. Start with a face wash like Neutrogena's Oil-Free Acne Wash or Olay Fresh Effects Acne Control Face Wash. (If you’re a lazy, face-wipes kind of lady, try Yes to Tomatoes Blemish Clearing Facial Wipes.) Then, apply a spot treatment, like Clean & Clear Advantage Acne Spot Treatment or a medicated tinted moisturizer, like Aveeno Clear Complexion BB Cream.</p>
<p>The longer this stuff sits on your face, the more time it has to work. Just be careful not to overdo it—vary your concentrations (not every product in your regimen should contain 2% salicylic, the highest OTC percentage), and be mindful of your skin's sensitivity. If your skin becomes overly dry, tight, or irritated, cut back on the concentration, the number of products in your regimen, or the frequency of application. "People can be <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/acne-skin-mistakes?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">too aggressive</a> with salicylic acid and irritate their skin," says Dr. Day. "Understand that it takes time for everything to work, so give it a few days to a week in order to really have the full benefit."</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Learn What Doesn't Work</h2>
<p>If you're thinking of using benzoyl peroxide here, well, just don't. While benzoyl can nuke zits quickly, salicylic is a better blackhead remedy because it helps exfoliate and unclog your pores. Benzoyl is mainly a bactericide that’s used to kill the P. acnes bacteria. This is less of a concern with blackheads, since they’re open at the surface—and contact with air kills the anaerobic bacteria.</p>
<p>Other stuff that doesn't help banish blackheads? "People will put things like hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol on their skin," says Dr. Day. "Those have zero effect on the bacteria that causes acne, and won't help blackheads or whiteheads, but they will dry out your skin. Hydrogen peroxide, if you use it too much, is actually toxic to collagen in skin cells, so it will harm your skin."</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Exfoliate Gently—And Whichever Way You Like</h2>
<p>Exfoliating regularly is key to keeping blackheads in check, since it scrubs away dead skin cells that could clog pores. Try a gentle face scrub (we like Garnier Clean + Blackhead Eliminating Scrub) or an at-home glycolic-acid peel (Juice Beauty Green Apple Blemish Clearing Peel does the job and also helps eliminate acne scars) once or twice a week—any more than that is overkill—for an extra boost of exfoliation. "It's fine to alternate between manual and chemical exfoliants," says Dr. Day. "The main thing is, don't over-scrub—you don't want to strip your skin. See what your skin likes and what you like. There are so many good choices."</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Get A Skin Brush</h2>
<p>If you needed justification for splurging on a Clarisonic, this is your moment. Washing your face with a mechanical skin brush will help fight the good fight against blackheads—not only because it’s essentially a powered-up way to exfoliate, but also because the deep cleanse allows active ingredients to better penetrate your skin, making them, well, more active. "I think they're fantastic," says Dr. Day. "They're much better than using your hands or a washcloth, both in preventing and treating blackheads."</p>
<p>But, not all brushes are created equal. (Dr. Day swears by the Clarisonic and its Deep Pore Cleansing Brush Heads, and the Olay ProX Microdermabrasion kit.) The more times a second the brush head moves, the less abrasive it will be (which is what you want). P.S. Make sure to keep your brush heads clean, and replace them often.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Take Off Your Makeup, For Crying Out Loud</h2>
<p>While one night of passing out with your makeup on won't result in a blackhead invasion, over time, this bad habit will absolutely contribute to gunked-up pores. If you can, wash your face as soon as you walk in the door. If you just can't deal with sudsing up after a long day, cleansing cloths will do, says Dr. Day. Keep a stash of them next to your bed. And, for heaven's sake, stop feeling up your face. Being all touchy-feely can transfer bacteria to your pores and—you guessed it—trigger blackheads and breakouts.</p>
<p> <figure class="e-image">
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</figure>
</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Moisture, Moisture, Moisture</h2>
<p>Dry, flaky skin is the enemy here, so moisturizing is non-negotiable. As with all skin-care products, look out for non-comedogenic, non-acnegenic formulas, which have been tested and proven not to clog pores and cause breakouts. (Oil-free is good, too, says Dr. Day, but not as important as those two.) Avoid occlusive products, like petrolatum and silicones, which contain heavy-duty ingredients that create a moisture barrier. By sealing in moisture, they also trap dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria — which will only cause more blackheads.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Try Retinol Or A Retinoid</h2>
<p>Over-the-counter retinol products and stronger, prescription retinoids (like Retin-A) are usually associated with anti-aging benefits, but they should also be recognized for their blackhead-busting properties, says Dr. Day. "These products will keep your skin cells turning over efficiently, without over-stripping," she says. "Having good, healthy skin will help you minimize blackheads. It's an ongoing thing." Start with a gentle OTC formula, like RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Night Cream, every other night, and stick with it for at least three months to really see results.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Pass The Pore Strips</h2>
<p>Undoubtedly, there’s something weirdly gratifying about yanking all the crap out of your nose with a Bioré strip. While they won't prevent blackheads, these sticky suckers can magically pull out the dirt. Limit usage of these curiosities to once a week, says Dr. Day, who totally gets the odd appeal. "I prefer other methods over pore strips, but it is kind of fun the first time you do it, and you see stuff coming out." Skip the strips if you have a sunburn, breakout, or excessively sensitive skin. Clay, charcoal, and salicylic-acid face masks are a great alternative to strips. (We love the Neutrogena Blackhead Eliminating Cleanser Mask, which you can rinse off and use as a face wash, or leave on as a treatment mask.) Just follow the directions closely, and if anything, keep it on for less, not more, than the recommended time, Dr. Day says.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Ditch DIY Treatments</h2>
<p>Tax returns. Highlights. Pizza. Some things—blackhead treatment included—are best left to the professionals. As tempting as it may be to become the Barefoot Contessa of comedones, there are better ways to get rid of blackheads than with your DIY concoction of <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/2014/04/67132/victoria-brito-elmers-glue-blackhead-trick?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">whatever the Internet has served up</a>. (Likely, a combo of salt, sugar, honey, olive and/or coconut oil, and lemon juice.) Skin-care companies have spent billions researching and developing blackhead remedies, so there's no reason to resort to a recipe you've found on a random blog. Dr. Day agrees: "Honestly, when it comes to blackheads, there are so many really great, inexpensive products in the drugstore that DIY just doesn't make sense. These products have been tested on skin, and will get you so much further for the same price, or less, than the DIY ingredients."</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Make An Appointment With Your Derm</h2>
<p>There's something about blackheads that screams, "Squeeze me." Before you do this at home—or pay a facialist good money to do it—and potentially cause inflammation or scarring, consult a dermatologist. Your derm can prescribe retinoids or chemical peels that may boost your results, recommend the best facialists in your city, or, if need be, kick your treatment regimen up a notch with Isolaz, a multi-session, in-office treatment that combines gentle pore suctioning with light therapy. Typically, Isolaz patients need a series of about five sessions, but can see significant results as soon as their first treatment.</p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/11/8019445/end-blackheads-with-these-genius-skin-tricksRefinery292015-02-05T11:58:09-05:002015-02-05T11:58:09-05:00I Tried Butt-Lifting Creams, And This Is What Happened
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<img alt="Illustration: Mary Galloway for Refinery29." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/fYNCkNo-imYtCSgLo7s7TJi4qz4=/36x0:604x426/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/45645730/CelluliteCreams_2015_2.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Illustration: Mary Galloway for Refinery29.</figcaption>
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p> <p><br>There's no shortage of <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/2014/05/68321/butt-facials?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">procedures</a>, topical products, diets, massages, at-home machinery, or magical spells floating around to treat cellulite. Despite a sneaking suspicion that neither "vacuum therapy" nor overpriced creams can reduce cellulite's characteristic dimples, we keep buying them—and buying into the notion that cellulite is an abnormal disorder that needs to be corrected. </p> <p>In fact, about 90% of post-adolescent women have it at some point. "It's something we argue about in medicine. Is it a disease or even an abnormality if 90% of women have it?" says David Bank, MD, a Mt. Kisco, NY-based dermatologist. "<a href="http://www.refinery29.com/butt-body-image?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related#slide">It's really just… normal.</a>" </p> <p>I'm sad to say that I'm not a special snowflake in this regard. (Or, maybe I should be happy: I'm normal!) I have cellulite on my outer thighs and butt, and yes, I have entertained the idea of buying a skirted swimsuit. And, lately, I've turned my attention to the "magical" potion of butt-firming creams—at least it sounded better than zapping my ass with a laser. </p> <p>When treating our lumps and bumps, most of us turn to topical creams, rather than in-office procedures. We all know intellectually that they probably don't do much—yet beauty companies keep making them and we keep buying them. </p> <p><style>.site-rna .post .post-title { width: 1000px !important; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-top:6px } .site-rna .post h1.post-title a { font-size:48px !important} .site-rna #leadintro { width:1000px; font-size:16px } .site-rna .post .post-body .post-more {width:660px;} .site-rna .post .post-body img.bigpic {width:660px; max-width:660px !important; height:auto } .site-rna .post .post-body #leadphoto {width:1000px; max-width:1000px !important; height:auto } .site-rna .post .post-body .pullquote { float:right; width:250px; margin: 0 0 10px 14px !important; padding: 8px 4px; font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-size:32px !important; line-height: 35px !important; border-top: 4px double #FF0000; border-bottom: 4px double #FF0000; } .post p { font-size: 17px; line-height:27px; margin-bottom:10px } .post h3 { font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-weight:normal; font-size:38px; width: 660px; padding: 18px 0; } .post h4 { font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-weight:normal; font-size:36px; width: 660px; padding-bottom:5px; padding-top:14px; } .site-rna .post .post-title { font-size:36px !important; width: 660px; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-top:6px; line-height:40px !important } .post-metadata {margin-top: 500px !important } #column-right { padding-top: 905px } .post .post-body object, .post .post-body img { max-width: inherit !important; } </style></p> <p><i>They don't work, right? Then, why are there so many of them? Surely, they must do something! Would beauty companies really try to get our hopes up in such a mean way?—My internal dialog</i></p> <p>There aren't a lot of objective studies that have analyzed whether cellulite creams actually do anything. Generally, companies do their own clinical studies so they can make claims like, "80% of women saw an improvement in the appearance of cellulite," being careful never to say "treatment" or "cure." So, I decided to test some of them as scientifically as possible. Dr. Bank, who also works with the Federal Trade Commission on cases in which cosmetics companies get into hot water for putting misleading labeling on products, seemed like the ideal no-BS guy to help me with this project. He agreed to photograph my cellulite before and after a two-month course of treatment with two different topical creams, and then to analyze the results as objectively as he can. Now, obviously this isn't as rigorous as, say, a double-blind study with 1,000 subjects, but it's better than me taking belfies in my bathroom mirror.</p> <p> I went into Dr. Bank's office, where I underwent a rather humiliating procedure. Imagine E!'s GlamCam 360, except in a medical office and you have no pants on. I stood in the middle of a small octagon on the floor, and was asked to spin around slowly—sans pants, may I remind you, but also, thankfully, sans Ryan Seacrest—while the doctor's assistant took closeup photos of my butt and thighs from every angle. </p> <p>I chose two products to test: Mio Shrink to Fit Cellulite Smoother ($56) on my left side, and Talika Back Up 3D ($64) on my right side. I applied them twice a day for eight weeks, missing only a few applications. I used the application technique recommended by Mio, which is to take about 20 seconds to massage in the product vigorously. Sluggish lymphatic drainage is one of the causes of cellulite, and massage can help move things along, so I wanted to increase my chances of a good outcome.</p> <p> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/CT1-Ta6pm--ZYA6_yyeM8mu0JF8=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/3384060/butt-cream-refinery29_2015_01.0.jpg">
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<br><span class="credit">Image: Mary Galloway for Refinery29</span></p> <p>Now's a good time to note that there are multiple causes for cellulite. As Dr. Bank explains, the fibrous connective bands that hold our muscles and fat in place run perpendicular to the skin. Fat cells become swollen, thanks to the aforementioned sluggish lymphatic drainage and hormones, and then the cells bulge between the fibrous bands, causing dimpling. Thinner female skin is also a contributor. It doesn't necessarily matter how much you weigh—it can occur on all body types. That's why it's so difficult to pinpoint one ingredient or treatment that will fix it. "I don't personally think there is a home-run treatment at the moment," says Dr. Bank. "Cellulite is so complicated that I think it's going to be a while [before we have one]."</p> <p>Well, that didn't keep me from trying. Despite his pessimism, Dr. Bank agreed to analyze the ingredient labels of each of the two products. Mio's main ingredients include caffeine, laminaria (which acts as a diuretic), green tea as an antioxidant, shea butter for moisture, and menthol—which gave it a tingly kick that gave, at least, the illusion that something was happening on my skin. It has a thick, creamy consistency and a fresh, slightly spicy scent. The Talika product is a less traditional cellulite cream. It contains several plant extracts that the company claims affect fat storage, moisturizers, and lactic and glycolic acids. It has a thinner consistency—sort of like a gooey serum. Aesthetically, I preferred the Mio product.</p> <p>According to Dr. Bank, none of these ingredients will "cure" cellulite—your best hope is of making it temporarily look better on a superficial level. Moisturizing and improving the skin's surface are half the battle, and both of these products contain ingredients that do that. The goal is to actually make skin plumper externally while decreasing swelling in fat cells, in order to visually decrease the contrast between the dimples and the non-dimpled skin. Caffeine works as a mild diuretic, trying to get rid of some of that extra fluid that's retained because of the sluggish lymph nodes. Ingredients like fruit acids will help smooth skin; dimethicone and hyaluronate will trap moisture and "plump." "I think [these products] certainly could help the appearance of the cellulite without truly correcting, curing, or fixing the complex underlying biophysiology of what's going on," he says.</p> <p>After two months of twice-daily application, I returned to Dr. Bank's office for follow-up pictures, which he zoomed in on and analyzed for me. (Let's hope his office never experiences a Sony-level hack, because no one outside of the medical community needs to see those.) The verdict? "On very close inspection of the before and after pictures, there is an ever-so-slight, very subtle smoothing of the skin," he says. "Where there are some undulations and topographical changes, the after pictures do look a bit smoother and more even." He saw this subtle improvement on both sides, so both products seem to have done an equally good job.</p> <p> I was pleasantly surprised, although the results were obviously minor. "I don't think that if we had done an ultrasound, or a CT scan, or biopsies, that you would have seen any real change in the true cellulite condition," Dr. Bank says. "If anything, you'd see a bit better hydrated skin, which would therefore be a little plumper." Myself, I didn't notice a huge difference visually, although my thighs definitely felt smoother and more taut, sort of like my face feels when I've been using a really good moisturizer regularly. (Plus, the massage I was giving myself twice a day may have helped me see some temporary results.) Honestly, though, applying one of these products twice a day feels like a chore to me—I don't feel as invested in them as I do in my facial products, possibly because very few people are ever privy to the underside of my butt. Still, if cellulite is a concern, I can recommend them with the caveat that you should definitely <i>not</i> expect miracles. </p> <p>The <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/plus-size-models-wear-fat-suits-photos?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">biggest lesson I learned</a> from all of this: Maybe we should just stop considering cellulite a problem.<i>—Cheryl Wischhover</i></p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/5/7996545/cellulite-creams-test-driveRefinery292015-02-04T12:25:48-05:002015-02-04T12:25:48-05:00Why Makeup Wipes Are the Devil
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<img alt="Photo: <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/makeup-wipe-skin-effects?utm_source=racked&amp;utm_medium=syndication&amp;utm_campaign=main">Refinery29</a>" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/CFyLXVTsPjRCaNwEcMiOZDL1TYU=/38x0:565x395/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/45645838/refinery29-makeup-wipes_2015_01.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Photo: <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/makeup-wipe-skin-effects?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=main">Refinery29</a></figcaption>
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<p class="c-entry-disclaimer"><i>Racked is no longer publishing. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for <a href="https://www.vox.com/the-goods">The Goods by Vox</a>. You can also see what we’re up to by <a href="https://vox.com/goods-newsletter">signing up here</a>.</i></p> <p><br>When I was growing up, I was constantly being reminded that you must earn what you have. (And, if something bad happens, that you probably earned that, too.) I can remember people always stopping my mother—at the McDonald's drive-through, the mall, the grocery store—to tell her how beautiful she was. She always blushed and half-smiled (she, like me, is self-conscious about her teeth), thanked them with a laugh, and then diverted the attention to whichever one of her four "handsome" boys was closest. Later, as we'd walk away, she'd attribute the compliment to her diligent skin-care ritual, or the <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/cheap-makeup?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related#slide">makeup technique</a> she had picked up at the counter last weekend. Just last week, she even called me to let me know that someone thought she was my brother's sister, which she owed to the right mix of Dior Glow Maximizer Primer and Clé de Peau foundation. (She calls me every. Single. Time. This happens.) </p> <p>That's probably why I've never been an advocate for a lazy beauty routine. I always wanted to be—and still, in fact, want to be—beautiful like my mother, so I take <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/jennifer-garner-beauty-tips-interview?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">skin care</a> very seriously. She encouraged (though never enforced) this behavior when I was barely a pre-teen, starting me off with Neutrogena this-and-that before I finally smartened up enough to raid her cabinets for whatever products I knew she wasn't using at the moment. No joke: I was applying concealer under my eyes before I stopped wetting the bed. I thought I could earn beauty, if only I aspired to it. </p> <p>So much of the beauty industry now is catered toward ease. This is not a bad thing, per se—the last thing any of us needs is to be slowed down. So, by all means, cut any corner possible when it comes to makeup and hair—sport as much dry shampoo, smudged liner, and BB cream as you need to get you from point A to point B quickly. Beauty should not be like a pair of five-inch heels that prevent you from keeping up. But, for the love of God (and, by God, I mostly mean Beyoncé), do not sacrifice your skin. </p> <p><style>.site-rna .post .post-title { width: 1000px !important; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-top:6px } .site-rna .post h1.post-title a { font-size:48px !important} .site-rna #leadintro { width:1000px; font-size:16px } .site-rna .post .post-body .post-more {width:660px;} .site-rna .post .post-body img.bigpic {width:660px; max-width:660px !important; height:auto } .site-rna .post .post-body #leadphoto {width:1000px; max-width:1000px !important; height:auto } .site-rna .post .post-body .pullquote { float:right; width:250px; margin: 0 0 10px 14px !important; padding: 8px 4px; font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-size:32px !important; line-height: 35px !important; border-top: 4px double #FF0000; border-bottom: 4px double #FF0000; } .post p { font-size: 17px; line-height:27px; margin-bottom:10px } .post h3 { font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-weight:normal; font-size:38px; width: 660px; padding: 18px 0; } .post h4 { font-family:TradeGothicLTStdBoldCondensed; Helvetica, Arial; font-weight:normal; font-size:36px; width: 660px; padding-bottom:5px; padding-top:14px; } .site-rna .post .post-title { font-size:36px !important; width: 660px; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-top:6px; line-height:40px !important } .post-metadata {margin-top: 500px !important } #column-right { padding-top: 905px } .post .post-body object, .post .post-body img { max-width: inherit !important; } </style></p> <p>Makeup wipes, in my humble opinion, are the epitome of lazy beauty. I know plenty a woman who keeps a stack of them by her bed, so she "never has to go to sleep with her makeup on." At first, this seems like a great idea: Sleeping in makeup is bad for your pores and your general hygiene, and that's the quickest fix. Right? </p> <p>Not really. "Cleansing wipes don't effectively clean the skin," explains celebrity aesthetician Renée Rouleau. "Instead, they just smear dirt, bacteria, oil, and makeup across the face. It's like applying cleanser to your face and then not washing it off, or skipping the rinse cycle of your laundry. Cleansing agents are designed to break down debris within the pores, but it's the rinsing action that actually removes it." </p> <p>Oh, dear. So, makeup wipes aren't actually doing the trick, then, which is astonishing considering just how many people love, love, love them. "Women think they've cleansed their skin with a simple wipe, but this isn't the case," adds aesthetician Kerry Benjamin. "There's still oil and debris that will clog pores, and products won't be able to penetrate without proper cleansing and exfoliation." </p> <p>Beyond that, makeup wipes have the potential to teach us a harmful lesson about cleansing, which many professionals consider to be the most crucial step of our morning and nighttime routines. "They're bad-habit-forming," Benjamin says. "The best defense to any skin strategy is a good offense. Learning to be proactive while you're young will help you reap major benefits as you enter your 30s, 40s, and beyond." </p> <p>Rouleau also points out that many makeup wipes are packed with ingredients like SD alcohol 40 and denatured alcohol. "These are put into the formula so they evaporate more quickly, so the skin doesn't stay wet for long," she explains. "But, skin cells are like fish—they need water to live, so alcohol is simply too dehydrating." (If you've ever felt a slight burn post-face wipe, now you know why.) </p> <p>So, what's the solution? Look at removing your makeup as its own, individual step. Benjamin recommends <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/dhc-deep-cleansing-oil-review?utm_source=racked&utm_medium=syndication&utm_campaign=related">investing in an oil</a>, like jojoba or coconut, and smoothing it onto the skin, allowing it to melt, before activating it with warm water and wiping off with a (clean!) towel. You can follow up with a traditional, gentle face wash of your choosing. "Also, wash your face before you get tired," Rouleau adds. "Do it before your head hits the pillow, or even right after dinner. Earlier is way better than never!"</p> <p> Don't worry, though: They're not all that bad. Keep your makeup wipes for things like plane rides or bathroom touch-ups, when you might need to freshen up your foundation or erase mascara smudges. They should be tools of convenience, not necessity. (Make sure to avoid the nasty ingredients, though, by investing in a product like Josie Maran's or Koh Gen Do's.) Hopefully, you'll come to enjoy—nay, luxuriate in—the art of the double-cleanse. Your skin will certainly be better for it. And, in the grand scheme of things, what's one extra step in your nightly ritual when clear, healthy skin is the end goal? So, drag yourself to the sink, oil in hand, and keep your eyes on the prize. There's nothing that feels as good as a hard-earned victory. <i>—Phillip Picardi</i></p>
https://www.racked.com/2015/2/4/7996659/makeup-wipes-are-the-devilRefinery29